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          | Equipment 
            for beginning flats fishing September 2002
 
 This is the follow-up to the August article about beginning flats 
            fishing. There are many sources for information on fishing equipment. 
            In fact, as many sources as there are opinions on what is the 'best' 
            equipment. I will start out by saying that this is my opinion. I will 
            pull from my recent personal experience, input from those who have 
            guided me along and information I have read in preparation for my 
            fishing. Lastly, this is only a suggestion for basic equipment. Budget 
            and specific requirements will factor in your personal choice.
 
 Well it is fishing and we can assume that you are going beyond a hand 
            line (though I see them used by anglers). You will need a rod, some 
            type of reel, line, terminal tackle. Okay, that is all you need to 
            know. Just kidding. I will provide information on each of these.
 
 Rod
 If you already have an outfit for freshwater fishing it may be all 
            you need. Depending on what you are targeting a reliable bass rod 
            can work. Rod materials have come a long way. Fiberglass is an option. 
            Older fiberglass rods were sometimes 'whippy' and heavy. Modern fiberglass 
            rods are much improved and can provide good service. The buzzword 
            in rods recently has been graphite. These rods are usually light for 
            there strength and can provide a faster action with high sensitivity. 
            They are not unbreakable but they do provide good durability. If you 
            can find a reasonably priced rod of graphite it would be a good bet. 
            Still each rod can be very different in feel. You will want to get 
            a rod that has a feel (weight, balance, action) that you like. Also 
            of consideration is the handle. Many lower cost rods have a foam handle 
            material. I can think of no reason that this will not work as well 
            as cork. It should be equal and possibly better in durability compared 
            to cork. Check that the guides are of good quality and sufficient 
            number to provide good performance. Guides should be no larger than 
            needed for line and knots and a reasonable expectation is one guide 
            per foot of rod length and a tip top. Finally you should check that 
            the reel seat is durable and will remain tight.
 
 Reel
 There is such a large range of quality and price for reels that you 
            will be able to find something that meets your requirements at a reasonable 
            price. However, to a point, you get what you pay for. There is something 
            to be said for purchasing a reliable but bargain reel. If it develops 
            a mechanical problem you can set it aside for parts and replace it 
            with another similar. The key here is to get a reel with a minimum 
            performance to assure that you bring in the fish you hook up with. 
            Suggestions include the following: 1) a metal frame will provide better 
            efficiency 2) get as many bearings as possible 3) drag is critical 
            4) instant anti-reverse is a good feature for explosive flats species 
            5) line capacity is not critical for most flats species 6) a durable 
            bail mechanism for long life. As with almost anything, buy the best 
            you can. After you buy, whether expensive or budget priced regular 
            maintenance will help assure the best performance for each use. Salt 
            water is not kind to anything mechanical. Rinse in clear water after 
            each trip. Use some lubricant or anti corrosion agent to on moving 
            and exposed parts. Just remember, you may only have one shot at that 
            fish and it could be the fish of a lifetime. You don't want a reel 
            to fail at this critical time.
 
 The comments above can be applied to any type of reel but you have 
            some options on reel type. Spinning reels have a stationary spool 
            and a bail lays line on the spool. Bait casting reels have a revolving 
            spool. A hybrid of sorts it the spin casting reel. It has a stationary 
            spool enclosed in the reel body and usually a pin that winds the line 
            on the spool. Generally speaking spin casting reels are not as robust 
            either in drag quality nor performance. A big fish is likely to outmatch 
            the reel and drag. They do work, I have some myself but would not 
            challenge a game fish with it if I had a choice.
 
 Spinning or Bait Casting?
 Between spinning and bait casting 
            it may be mostly personal preference. There are advantages to each 
            and it is not a bad idea to have both. You will find that many flats 
            anglers, even those wading will carry two outfits and paddlers often 
            between three and six. Why so many you ask? One answer, because they 
            can. But there is a practical reason as well, you have each rigged 
            with a different lure presentation to quickly adjust to any fishing 
            opportunity. I will try to expand on this in a future article.
 
 Back to the differences in spinning and bait casting differences. 
            Spin casting reels benefit from using light lines to increase casting 
            distance. In some cases this makes a better presentation. The need 
            for a shock leader though reduces the stealth a small diameter line 
            would provide. The reels have plenty of line capacity and offer smooth 
            drag operation. Free spooling offers almost no resistance for live 
            bait. On the down side there is a possibility of line twist due to 
            the way line is wound on the spool. This can occur due to line stripping 
            out against the drag or by spinning lures. Spinning reels offer good 
            control for long or finesse casting.
 
 Bait casting reels offer a challenge to cast. They have features to 
            greatly reduce the 'backlash' (spool over spins and line loosens and 
            becomes tangled). Casting distance is more effected by friction than 
            the spinning reel. However you can get comparable casting distance. 
            The casting motion is different in my experience and you should practice 
            a little before you use it for serious fishing. The benefits of the 
            bait caster are the drag which is more directly applied to the line 
            and immunity from line twist issues. One thing to be careful of is 
            casting into the wind. You will almost certainly get a backlash if 
            you do not control the spool. This restricts distance.
 
 Lastly, I will mention fly fishing. I have only slight confidence 
            in my skills as a fly angler but it is rewarding to catch a big saltwater 
            game fish on fly tackle. In some cases it can be an advantage, such 
            as spooky schools of reds or bonefish. You can get a fly outfit at 
            a reasonable price and this is what I suggest if you are starting 
            out. Check online resources and your local fly shop for information.
 
 Information on Line and Terminal tackle will be added in the next 
            article.
 
 Let me know what you think.
 
 Good Fishing,
 
 Joe
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